Berkeley Street is an area that’s no stranger to fine dining, so when it comes to standing out, you need to do more than just talk the talk. This is why when we were recently invited down to Jeru situated in this iconic location we were intrigued to see if it was up to the task. Having first opened in 2021, Jeru brings Chef Roy Ner‘s flair for pan-Mediterranean cooking to London’s West End.
The exterior of Jeru is relatively simple, doing little to prepare you for what greets you once inside. With a stone facade and wooden doors it blends easily into the buildings around it, yet subtle wooden accents and opulent side lights are enough to pique your interest and get you wondering. Upon entering you’re hit with the warm aromas of cooking food in a way that’s tantalising rather than overbearing.
There’s an on-site bakery where you can take home freshly-baked goods such as spiced date cakes, before leading to a wine cellar bar/ private dining area. It’s impeccably decorated and oozes opulence, with sleek wooden accents, chandeliers and plenty of natural elements. We recommend coming a little early for a pre-dinner tipple where you can just soak up the atmosphere of the bar as well as enjoying one of the expertly crafted cocktails on offer.
The main restaurant is through a large archway and features low-level lighting, and an open-style kitchen that offers a treat for all the senses. Watch as the chefs place steak upon a hotplate, hear the hot sizzle as it makes contact and smell the aromas that are released – paprika, cumin, cracked pepper, salt. We take our seats and peruse the menu – there’s the choice between their a la carte or the set menu with or without wine pairing. Figuring it would be rude not to sample as many dishes as we can while we’re here, we opt for the four-course set menu and wine pairing. Priced at £135pp with wine or £79pp without, the price is about what you’d expect for a fine-dining establishment in the area.
We start with a selection of small plates; there’s wood-fired bread that’s warm to the touch, soft and light, accompanied with a mouthwatering truffle honey and chickpea miso butter. We dip the bread in a black chickpea hummus with herb tatbelah and feast on this alongside heritage beetroot pastrami, feta and roasted hazelnuts topped with a caper vinaigrette. Flavoured yet not overpoweringly so and just enough to whet our appetites, it’s a fantastic precedent for the rest of the courses. We enjoy this starter selection alongside a crisp glass of 2021 Chateau D’esclans Whispering Angel, the ideal accompaniment.
Next up is a mezze selection consisting of halloumi doughnuts with goat’s curd, lemon & truffle honey, tuna crudo with fennel, salsa, whipped avocado & herbs and crispy hasselback artichokes with caramelised celeriac tahini, anchovies & spring onion salsa. Each dish we try showcases Chef Roy Nair’s palate for what works, fusing a myriad of herbs and spices with fresh ingredients and inventive combinations. The halloumi doughnuts are a firm favourite and it’s with much restraint we avoid asking for more. If it weren’t for the excitement of the main course, this would have been an effortless choice. This course was enjoyed alongside a glass of Vermentino di Bolgheri, Guado al Tasso, an Italian wine that teases out an inner-depth to the dishes, coaxing out new flavours and adding another dimension to the course.
Mains wise, you have a choice of one to share between two. Select between corn-fed chicken, butterfly sea bream or charcoal roasted aubergine. We opt for the chicken, accompanied by braised cabbage & leek with a delicious jus drizzled on top. Served alongside a fresh salad mix of butter, radishes and endive lettuce as well as garlic spiced potatoes, it’s a beautiful combination. Filling without being bloating, flavoured without being overpowering and presented beautifully, it’s a dish that doesn’t disappoint. The chicken is succulent, the salad crisp and the potatoes crunchy to the outside and soft and fluffy within.
Washed down with a glass of French Chardonnay – a 2020 Joseph Drouhin Chablis, my partner and I are feeling comfortable and full in a way that you know you’ve eaten and drunk extremely well. We soak up the warm atmosphere, it’s vibrant and buzzing yet with an air of sophistication. It’s the perfect place to head for a date, with friends or when on the hunt for dishes that are going to impress.
Our dining experience at Jeru Mayfair is rounded off with dessert – a pastry with ice cream, pistachios and a floral garnish. It’s light, delicate and when paired with a 2020 Entice Hattingley wine, the ideal way to finish the meal. Our plates are cleared yet we stay and sip our wine for a little longer, not wanting the evening to end. Jeru Mayfair is a restaurant that proves you can have style, substance and a justifiable price tag. Rather than relying on the location to entice in a crowd, they have the flair, ingredients and skill to entice those looking for an unforgettable culinary experience. Jeru Mayfair is one of those places that doesn’t get lost in the sea of eateries the city boasts. Instead it carves its own particular spot and is one you can’t help but go back to.
Jeru Mayfair
11 Berkeley St
London
W1J 8DS
