In September I had the pleasure of visiting beautiful Israel to sample the cultural offerings of not one, but two incredible cities: Jerusalem and Tel Aviv…
You can read the extended version of my adventures here.
However, if you’re after more than wanderlust, and plan to visit Israel in the near future, here’s everything you need to know about staying, shopping and socializing in the city Levantine-style.
Where to stay:
Jerusalem:
As far as hotels go, the Herbert Samuel is a great location for a first-timer to Jerusalem, especially if you’ve got a busy schedule (and ours was packed). It’s central and stylish and has all the amenities conducive to kicking back after a long day of sight-seeing. 
Its bijou pool is compact but beautifully designed and accompanied by a sauna and steam room. Even at peak hours it was relatively quiet and perfect for unwinding. In the suites, bathrooms are beautiful; the rain shower is an exciting touch.
The other highlight of my stay here was breakfast. I never eat breakfast (a terrible habit, I know) but our media liaison Jason really drove home the message that your experience of Israeli cuisine is incomplete without sampling breakfast. So I did. And, at the Herbert Samuel, its excellent coffee is complemented not only by plentiful labneh, tahini and smoked fish, but the views from the 11th floor restaurant are incredible. Beware the smoke herring, though. I’m told it’s a delicacy, but it’s definitely an acquired (read: really salty) taste!
Tel Aviv
A newbie on the hospitality scene, this boutique hotel had been open for just two weeks when we stayed there. This meant it was still ironing out a few cosmetic issues but, more the most part, we were oblivious to any problems. What I loved about the hotel was its quirky décor. Its community spaces downstairs and on the roof terrace are both colourful and comfortable while rooms are stylish, spacious and well-equipped.
One of the nicest features of the hotel is the complementary “happy hour” it hosts every evening in the lobby. Here, guests can enjoy some delicious canapes with soft drinks or wine and get to know other visitors. You can also take drinks up to the roof terrace and enjoy views of the cityscape. It’s a really lovely touch and I’d recommend taking advantage of it if you’re staying here.
Treasure Hunting
Jerusalem
If you’re after some authentic local togs, head to the Mahane Yehuda market in Jerusalem. The covered side of the market plays host to a vast array of food stalls offering spices, exotic fruits, halva and wines. 
However, the open-air street parallel to the covered side is where you’ll find souvenirs and clothing rails. Several of the stalls offer a variety of loose-fitting shirts and skirts in interesting prints and patterns. Look carefully and you’ll find a few offering inexpensive reversible wrap-around skirts. They’re unique designs and make great gifts.
If you’re looking for something a bit more upmarket, then go to the Mamilla Mall. It has all your high street favourites like Zara, but also a few luxury labels like Rolex.
Tel Aviv:
Tel Aviv is a commercial city, so there are lots of shopping malls like the Ramat Aviv Mall and the Azrieli Centre. However, the main market that everyone heads to is the Carmel Market. It’s a typical Israeli local market selling food stuffs and household commodities, but you can also find lots of interesting nik naks. That noted, it is very much a locals’ market, so be prepared to haggle to get the best prices!
Dining
Jerusalem
Adom Restaurant, in the First Station, is one of the many bars and restaurants you’ll find in this repurposed railway station. Offering typical Levantine fare, there are lots of different seating areas to choose from, including outdoor seating and smaller, more intimate booths. It’s a nice place to end an evening after browsing the market stalls outside or enjoying live entertainment in the First Station’s open air performance space. Adom is also a good choice for families, as there are lots of children’s activities available locally.
Joy restaurant is one of the more intimate dining venues in Jerusalem. Offering cosmopolitan European fare, as well as the typical Kosher cuisine, it’s a good setting for a quiet dinner date. The presentation is excellent, especially given the sharing nature of Jewish meal times.
If you go anywhere for dessert, make sure it’s Machneyuda. Probably the most hipster restaurant in Jerusalem, everything is delivered with a bit of theatre by a team of maddeningly entertaining chefs. Be warned, though: there’s a high risk of getting splattered in chocolate and whipped cream!
Tel Aviv
The Blue Rooster restaurant in Tel Aviv’s G Tower is a great little spot if you’re looking for an alternative to traditional Tel Avivian cuisine. The restaurant is a real hidden gem, not least because its intimate wooden interiors and rustic surrounds are an unexpected transition from the glass and steel G Tower complex. Serving a range of Italian fare, the restaurant has a warm, homely feel, while the assortment of porcelain chickens lining the walls give it a quirky touch.
Drinking
Jerusalem
Mamilla Hotel is one of the highlights of this luxury neighbourhood and arguably the most stylish social spot in the city. You’re spoilt for choice here, with its dark, sixties-style “Mirror Bar”, the vaulted underground winery or the hotel’s infamous rooftop bar. This was one of my favourite spots and its panoramic views of the city are best enjoyed with a glass of chilled champagne.
HaShcena is a lively bar that sits right across the road from Machneyuda. A popular night spot, it offers a wide selection of drinks and plays familiar mainstream music. It’s a good place to start if you’re planning on heading on to….
Mahane Yehuda night market. By day, Mahane Yehuda is your typical Middle Eastern souk. By night, it’s an unrecognisable party spot buzzing with everything from Shisha bars to pop-up pubs. Definitely take the time to witness the market’s incredible transformation.
Tel Aviv
Rothschild Boulevard, one of the main connecting streets of the city, becomes a hub for pop-up coffee and cocktail bars in the evenings. With Israel’s generally warm weather, it’s a relaxing way to unwind with friends. Take a long walk down the centre and pick a lively spot.
Top tips for a terrific trip:
- Israel is an amazing destination, but still a high security one. Always carry your passport with you and be prepared to show evidence of your reservations and bookings both when entering and leaving the country. Plan in additional time for your ‘exit interview’ when leaving the country too, as this can take some time.
- Wear a hat! It sounds obvious, but it’s a hot country that used to be a desert (and most of it still is). So be prepared for the weather and make you use sun block during the day. That noted, it can get chilly in the evenings so do pack a couple of light layers.
- Weekends in Israel are Friday and Saturday and most of the community has religious observances during this time. This means that most shops and restaurants shut by early afternoon on Friday and don’t reopen until sundown on Saturday. Make sure you buy any essentials around these hours and book meals at non-kosher venues in advance as kosher bars and restaurants won’t be open.
- As many Orthodox Jews avoid using energy during the Sabbath, don’t be surprise to find things like elevators and other electronic equipment in auto-mode. If you’re in a multi-storey building, you might find yourself stopping on every floor.
- Don’t be alarmed if you see people in uniform walking around with guns! While Israel has a high police and military presence, it’s a relatively safe place and firearms are a common sight. They’re there for your safety and many of the staff on duty are actually quite friendly.
