Roast Restaurant is situated right in the hubbub of Borough Market and offers fine food, fine views and an evening you won’t forget…
Borough market is an integral cog in London’s mechanism, providing a solid dose of nostalgia, community spirit and a myriad of sights, smells and tastes as you wander through one of the oldest and largest food markets in the city. Yet amidst the hustle and bustle, the legs of ham, the cheeses and the fruits, nestled away is fine dining restaurant Roast. And whilst it may seem a slightly odd spot to hide a luxury eating establishment it works perfectly. It encapsulates a real feel of British spirit, the quintessential charm of Borough Market – and its views from a floor up provide the ideal spot for people watching.
Regulars to the market might be familiar with Roast’s takeaway counterpart just below and on the main forecourt (a must try if you are yet to have indulged in this) but the main restaurant is a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it hidden gem. It’s not flashy and in your face and nor does it need be.
The interior is soaked in natural light which floods from ceiling to floor, large windows and the bright airy space reminiscent of an old orangery. Decor is classic and elegant and they regularly hang pictures of inspiring figures upon the walls (Stephen Fry was the man of choice on our visit.)
As it’s name suggests the menu is largely focused on roast dinners and this is something it takes seriously. Other dishes include Red mullet with olive oil braised vegetables
and chargrilled artichokes and Black truffle and burrata parcels with sage and pine nuts – there is a wide choice to suit even a fussy palate.
and chargrilled artichokes and Black truffle and burrata parcels with sage and pine nuts – there is a wide choice to suit even a fussy palate.
For staters I opted for Wiltshire burrata with heritage tomatoes and peaches and whilst I was dubious about the mix of peaches, tomatoes and a cheese (is it a dessert? Is it a starter?) it was pleasantly delicious, teasing the taste buds with pockets of sweetness, creaminess and the sharp tang of the tomatoes. My partners seared scallops were also an instant success, complemented by fennel, gooseberries, sorrel and a delicious smoked almond dressing. Each were elegantly presented and (almost) too good to eat.
Mains are where Roast London really shine and I was impressed with my choice of the classic roast beef. Whilst fine dining establishments can be known for their stingy portions and focus on the aestheticism of the dish rather than the taste, Roast London married the two. My plate was delivered piled with slices of juicy beef almost hidden by a fat Yorkshire pudding, wonderfully golden and crisp on the outside, and soft on the in, bathed in a puddle of thick gravy. This was accompanied by a portion of roast potatoes and creamed spinach. The roast potatoes were the perfect texture, balancing on soft and crunchy, the beef was succulent and soft, melting to the mouth and the added extra creamed spinach a delicious accompaniment.
My partner’s braised ox cheeks were also a delicious choice and testament to just how well Roast London can really cook. They were meltingly tender, with a rich, deep flavor which was further enhanced by the creamed onion sauce and roasted garlic.
No matter how full you feel, make sure you save room for dessert as if you don’t, you will certainly regret it. Desserts are also a tricky one to master, perfecting the balance between over-indulgent and disappointingly light and again Roast London ticked the boxes. Each dish is written with a recommended wine beside, but there is also a dedicated wine menu for you to choose from too. I chose the Bramley apple and blackberry crumble with almonds and English vanilla custard. Again, it had the tastes and aesthetic pleasure of a michelin-starred dessert, but the portion size was impressive. My partner’s
Dorset blueberry cheesecake with stem ginger shortbread was also delicious and full of flavour.
We rounded the meal off with a cup of coffee and watched through the windows as London life started to slow down. Roast is a place to take your friends, your date and your in-laws. It impresses effortlessly and is in no way pretentious. The food is cooked to perfection and will satisfy each of your senses, leaving you pleasantly full and wondering when you can return.
Find out more on their website here.