For SS17, Eudon Choi paid homage to American photographer Francesca Woodman and her tragic end.

Amidst the manic, mayhem and explosion of colour which often takes over London Fashion Week, was Eudon Choi, who’s collection had a rather more sombre feel. Paying homage to American photographer Francesca Goodman who committed suicide at the young age of 22, the collection was a palette of gentle block colours – soft purple hues, blues and whites. Calming and soothing, the clothing was a nod of appreciation toward simple colouring but more extravagant shaping, with impressive construction and brand new shapes. It is vastly poetic, exploring new proportions and celebrating both life and death.
A vast amount of the collection was rich in black, whites and greys, paying homage to Goodman’s black and white photographs of the female form.

Androgynous shapes are interwoven throughout the collection and as more and more women opt for the comfortable and looser shapes all so often found in the menswear sections, it is no surprise this is one such attribute for Choi’s success. Think crisp asymetric shirts, exaggerated trousers shapes and effortless oversized dresses, fastened with mismatching buttons or held together with a cord.

The clothes shout comfort, yet also ooze effortless style and splashes of chic. This is a collection you can turn to for a day of lounging at home, yet also throw together with a pair of heels and dress it up for the office. This juxtaposed/ blurred lines style, closely relates to Woodman’s work whose figures were usually obscured or blurry themselves. One dress even contains a blotch print which is a direct reference to a dress the photographer once pictures herself in, but other than this, most reference to her are much more subtly interwoven.

Her fascination with destruction can also be seen in the way Eudon Choi’s garments had slashes, cuts, openings and undone buttons. Voluminous skirts came slashed and sneak peeks of leather suspenders could be seen holding up mid-calf socks.

It’s a collection that’s thrilling, exciting yet understatedly so. It makes a statement yet is in no way ostentatious.
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