In late September we had the privilege of joining a group of international bloggers and journalists for an incredible architectural adventure in Israel…
Our itinerary was curated by The Ministry of Tourism and saw us splitting our time between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv. Just an hour apart by road, these cities could not be more different, as we were to discover during the five day trip. This is the full 411 on my voyage. TL,DR? We’ll be releasing a bite sized version in our Dress, Drink and Dine Guide shortly.
JERUSALEM
My journey began at the painfully early hour of 4am when a car arrived to take me to the airport. Having never been a morning person, I have to admit that I perked up immensely when I discovered my ride was a Jaguar! Apparently this was a happy accident, but it certainly made for a great start to the trip. Six hours later and we were hurtling down the sandy streets of Israel and ready to crash out at our home for the next four nights – the recently renovated Herbert Samuel Hotel in Jerusalem. 
The next morning, our first order of the day was a private visit to Ticho House. Once the home of a doctor and his artist wife, the Ottoman-style house now runs as a gallery space. While we were there, we were treated to the closing days of a confronting exhibition exploring the childless marriage of Dr Abraham and Anna Ticho, the former residents.
The exhibition, held in a ruined outhouse round the back, was truly bizarre, burtonesque and disturbing to look at sometimes, employing dismembered dolls and a wardrobe of children’s clothes that would never be worn.
By contrast, the main building was a place of light and cheer, with the first floor, previously the main apartment, now serving as a café and refectory and the ground floor providing an inspiring gallery space. The building retains its original domed ceilings and tiles, exposing the history of the house. Truly worth a look if you’re ever in Jerusalem.
Our next stop was a visit to Beit Alliance, a start-up hub in the heart of Jerusalem, giving birth to a new generation of art, design and technology. 
Jerusalem is reportedly more expensive than Paris, so many young people are finding innovative ways of re-purposing spaces. Even abandoned bomb shelters are now used as start-up studios! Israel truly is the capital of the start-up world and you really get a sense of that in a place like Beit Alliance. Firstly, few people under the age of thirty seem to occupy the space. Secondly, it’s a place of real community, where well-documented religious conflicts are dissolved into a united movement for the improvement of city life. Full of studios and creative spaces, you get a first-hand understanding of the ‘New Spirit’ that the organisation is trying to bring to Jerusalem.
A hop-step away from Beit Alliance was what was to become one of our all-time favourite places in Jerusalem: the Mahane Yehuda Market. 
If you’re looking for the ultimate multi-sensory experience of Israel, head here. Just off Jaffa Road, it has all the trappings of a traditional souk – the spices, the array of sweet treats, colourful exotic fruits, the rainbow togs and tassels and the scent of flowers in the air. The chorus of market stall owners hawking their wares and the friendly faces tempting you with titbits of halva is a real sight to behold.
It’s also a great place to pick up a date. Believe me, Jewish men aren’t shy and Mahane Yehuda is more than one kind of marketplace!
What’s remarkable about the market is the way the space transforms after dark. Jerusalem is known for its history and architecture, but rarely its nightlife. However, a new generation is seeking to change that and now, by night, most of the stalls are converted into lively bars and clubs. Truth be told, we went back twice!
Our final stop of the day was an all-too-brief visit to the Israel Museum. The largest cultural institution in the country, it is actually made up of several museums with different specialisms. All of the museum’s architecture is calculated in measures of 7 and 11, with 7 considered a highly auspicious number in Jewish culture. The Israel Museum is really the kind of place where you’d want to get lost for a few hours. Sadly, we only had one – but it was long enough to encounter this stunning statue that flanks several storeys of the building. Entitled “Gathering of Strangers”, the gargantuan sculpture is a tribute to the forced dispersion of peoples affected by war in the surrounding region.
A neighbouring gallery also houses some incredible originals of Pablo Picasso, while an Anish Kapoor sculpture graces the promenade outside, so it’s a real treat for the art lover.
The next day, we began with an excursion to Hansen House. Once a quarantined hospital for lepers, it now functions similarly to Beit Alliance, attracting artists and techies who have re-purposed the space. It was here that I encountered YAYA designer Yael Gershon among the many artisanal craft stalls outside. I immediately fell in love with this brass and silver illusion necklace and simply couldn’t resist!
Following this, we were given a private tour of the stunning Van Leer Institute by the architect of the new campus, Bracha Chyutin. A place I’d describe as “architecturally indulgent”, I completely fell in love with it. I fell in love with the expansive glass atrium and flowing stairwells, I fell in love with the gorgeous landscaped gardens and I fell in love with the tranquil floor-to-ceiling library. It’s a wonder of modern architecture.
Next we were taken to a pretty historic village called Ein Karem, famous for being the birth place of St John the Baptist. It was here, in a private and lovingly restored family home, that we were invited to venture underground to view an ancient ritual bath. 
Dating to the early days of Christianity, it may even have been used by John the Baptist himself! It is from the elevated heights of Ein Karem that you can get some of the most picturesque views. Ein Karem is also home to the church of St John the Baptist, where monks and nuns in traditional garb roam about the place, giving it a sense of authenticity.
Our day ended at the First Station, a converted railway station that now plays host to a range of boutiques, restaurants and bars, as well as a vast entertainment space. We soaked up the atmosphere on the final night of a music festival before indulging in some Levantine fare at Adom restaurant.
By now it was the Sabbath, so things were quiet when I later took a walk around town, but it was a good opportunity to appreciate the colourful decorations giving each street a novelty theme. It was also funny that the liveliest place of the night seemed to be a local Mexican restaurant, which clearly wasn’t kosher. It seemed strange that in a city so old and full of history that people should be actively trying to ‘create culture’. The youthful ambition to bring art and life to Jerusalem is clearly one of the biggest generational issues for the city. As one artist poignantly put it: “The hope is that we do better for Jerusalem”.
Saturday was a big day for us, as it was the day we went to the Old City, which is an unmissable excursion for anyone visiting. A pilgrimage site for Jews and Christians alike, the Old City takes you back to the days of yore, when King David was on the throne and ruled during a period of prosperity.
This nugget of history is important when you consider how many times Jerusalem has been destroyed and rebuilt by wars. It is the city with nine lives and more, which is fitting, given Jerusalem’s abundant cat population. (They keep away the rats!)
The Old City is also where you can visit the site of the Last Supper and walk the fourteen Stations of the Cross, following the final pathway of Christ before he was crucified.
However this area, while considered sacred and holy, is equally crowded and touristic, detracting rather a lot from the symbolism of the site. Our guide Eli lost most of us between the Wailing Wall and the first station! 
At the heart of the Old City, directly outside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, market stalls line the streets and you can even find a money changer or two – slightly ironic as I seem to recall Jesus wasn’t too happy about people trading outside the temple!
Yet the church itself is worth battling the pedestrian traffic, as it houses some incredible ancient art, stained glass windows, frescoes and artefacts. It’s easy to feel a sense of awe when you enter, especially with so many visitors expressing their faith inside; it can be quite an emotional experience. 
The Old City is definitely a must-see for history buffs, especially if you’re interested in viewing the ruined pillars along the ancient road dating back to the Roman-Byzantine period.
From here you can also get some stunning views of the Kidron Valley and the Dome of the Rock. However, the best view of the valley is from the Mount of Olives on the other side, where pilgrims from around the world of all the Abrahamic faiths converge to take in the panoramic scenes.
The evening was spent visiting several local residents in their private homes to get a taste of how Jerusalemites really live. The highlight of these, for me, was an encounter with artist Birgitta Yavari-Ilan. Swedish by birth, Jewish by choice, this amazing lady was so full of warmth and love. Besides the restoration of her beautiful home, she also has an incredible story to tell, having once fostered eleven children! It was a real treat to get such an intimate glimpse of the private lives of Jerusalem.
TEL AVIV
On the morning of our final full day in Israel, we transferred to Tel Aviv, where the distinction from Jerusalem is immediately apparent. Once a small Mediterranean town, the metropolis is now considered the financial capital of Israel. 
It’s a city of skyscrapers and commerce, from market vending to plush multimillion pound penthouse apartments. Following a tour of some of Tel Aviv’s most iconic buildings and a lunch stop at the Carmel food market, we checked in to our lodgings – a boutique hotel that had been open for just two weeks!
The 65 Hotel Rothschild was a welcome retreat from our busy itinerary, with quirky interiors and a rooftop terrace perfect for relaxing. It was at this point that a few of us went off-plan and escaped to the beach. It was utter bliss basking in the late evening sunshine after all our bustling about! When in Tel Aviv…
For our final night, we dined at the Blue Rooster restaurant in Tel Aviv’s G Tower. The Italian cuisine is served against a backdrop of exposed wood interiors, all showcasing the owner’s appreciation for roosters. Seriously, there are chicken ornaments everywhere. 
After a hearty dinner, we retreated back to our hotel, where we toasted the trip and made sure to do the essential Facebook exchanges with all our new friends. Within our group of twenty or so, many of us had forged fast friendships, which made the trip even more memorable.
In the morning, I was able to squeeze in a brisk walk up the Rothschild Boulevard to get some snaps of Leonard Bernstein Square, where you’ll find the Hall of Culture and the Habima Theatre. The iconic round façade is pretty imposing, while the square boasts a mini one-tree-hill surrounded by vast concrete buildings, making it look completely out of place. 
A sense of sadness took over as I walked back to the hotel, knowing that I would soon be leaving Israel. But I was also certain I’d be back soon. There’s so much more to see of this fascinating country.
