On the opening day of London Fashion Week AW16, Korean – Seoul – born J. JS LEE transformed our perception of women’s tailoring
This collection redesigned the two piece skirt suit into a striking compilation of layered shirts, skirts, trousers, coats and dresses, all constructed in deliberately beautiful lines and shapes originating not only from practices of male tailoring but also exhibiting a composition similar to men’s Victorian dress, altogether creating a fresh, contemporary and sumptuous innovation of female formal-wear.
Punches of French wool tweed unified the collection with texture and colour, in shades of deep scarlet and mustard yellow and classic black, pristine white and latticed suit grey. The frayed raw edges and finish which is typical of woven tweed fabric was carried throughout the collection in ruffles and tasselled finishes.
The prim and precise knee lengths skirts and dresses layered over straight and wide cut trousers was a understated nod to the 90’s, particularly with the synched in ruched silk leg warmers that gave the illusion of trousers that opened at the knee showing only a couple of inches of supple skin. It reminded one of leg warmers of the late 80’s and early 90’s brought into the modern era with chic execution defining dynamic and fashionable work apparel.
Inspired by Victorian Architecture as, as of late, Jackie Lee has been house hunting in London, this influence is fabricated in the fringed high necklines, ruffled edges and belted and pinched waistline, creating a full, billowy, rippling, animated shape, with the plumose silk wide leg tailored trousers, and voluminous skirts highlighting a defined and quietly sexy silhouette presented through a reserved severity and restraint deriving from the clean form of traditional suit tailoring: Lee’s primary expertise.
The masculine foundations of the designs paired with aesthetically feminine overtones not only display Jackie Lee’s structural skill but also discerns a sensitivity and knowledge of the female form. The cut and shape of the garments are both soft and flattering whilst also conveying a confidence and authority in the powerful shapes these AW16 designs throw.
The calf trouser – the legwarmer brought into the modernity of tailored outfitting, accentuates the chic subtleties and smart detailing that is prevalent in J. JS Lee’s original designs. This AW16 collection has invented a new way to dress your legs, a new line, a new cut, an officially classy businesswoman’s legwarmer beneath the perfect midi-length skirts and dresses, giving a sexy flash of flesh, a glimpse of a sinuous knee at the flick of her strut which reminiscent of a genteel Victorian era of fashion whereby baring an ankle was considered scandalously erotic.
The Central Saint Martins-trained designer launched her eponymous label In March 2010 featuring sleek androgynous tailored pieces. Jackie Lee is a designer who is known for her utilitarian, functional, sharp, executive look and accordingly, more masculine approach to clothes, whilst also enamouring the female form in delicate style. Her speciality of tailoring moves on to minimalist, refined and thoughtful presentation where utility, quality and attention to detail are in the forefront of the design, creating style which is intended to liberate and empower women. This collection is synonymous with 80’s power dressing executed with 21st century sensibility, emboldened by choice luxurious fabrics and a peppering of restrained detailing and that harks back to the decorative frills of Gothic men’s blouses: nuances that transcend the collection to a delicacy of opulence of Victorian tailoring.
Jackie JS Lee is evidently a pattern-making genius, a master tailor, and an artist with invention and modernity.
