BOXPARK of East Croydon is an unexpected oasis for diverse food vendors, drinks, games, eccentric music, and, the extraordinary Thela Kitchen. This article will be the first instalment of many, where I took an evening to speak (and eat) with the talented and inspiring chefs that call BOXPARK home. First, the unforgettable Chef Uzma Zia at Thela Kitchen.
Behind the striking and colourful Pakistani decorations of Thela Kitchen, there is a phenomenal Chef, Uzma Zia. Chef Uzma prepares her food with an earnest and relentless mission to uphold the authentic flavours of Karachi street food.
Uzma is a woman who loves everything about great food…down to the very last detail. The bell in her shop echoes the bells rang by Karachi street vendors, used to let people know the food has arrived. Chef Uzma Zia recognises the task of bringing true Pakistani cuisine as her work’s purpose. Thela Kitchen meticulously exhibits the market culture she grew up savouring.
The eyes you notice as you enter Thela Kitchen are iconic symbols in Pakistan that always come with a message. Hand-painted by Uzma herself, the eyes at Thela Kitchen read a message in support of women – specifically, that girls have the right to study.
And women certainly run the show at Thela Kitchen. By chance, Uzma’s staff is comprised of five women besides herself. These girls have become her family. Chef Uzma Zia says they have allowed her to bring her dream of introducing authentic Karachi street food to London come into fruition.
Uzma told me, “This place is a little heaven for me. I want it to be so welcoming that when you come here, you want to come and work…I was once a banker in stocks. It was a very stressful job… my workplace is not like that.”
Chef Uzma Zia also has another mission, “I like to make things slightly healthier.”
Her plates take longer because she uses clarified butter (ghee), not oil. Largely inspired by her elders and her mother, Uzma knows that ghee is good for you and her mother instilled in her the dedication to always make meals better than they were found–so Chef Uzma does exactly that. She learned a lot from her mother’s techniques. With the cuisine at Thela, you will feel that it is hand done, with each and every ingredient. Thela Kitchen utilizes natural ingredients that can be tasted. The layers are there, the flavours are there.
Chef Uzma Zia and her girls never cut corners. Uzma does most of the prep work in the kitchen because she is extremely accurate with her measurements; but Uzma said that even if you get the measurements correct, the person who is prepping the ingredients can make a distinctive difference. For Uzma, she always knows who has prepared what and she wants to know that customers get the same authentic flavour every time they come back.
“I’m not just selling food, I’m selling my culture also,”
Uzma Zia
When Uzma came to London in 2010, she could not find the authentic Pakistani food she knew and loved. In a place like London where street food is widely popular, Uzma was curious, “Why do we keep them deprived by not showing them what Pakistan has to offer?”
“So…” Chef Uzma Zia said, “…I came in.”
Some of the incredible dishes on offer at Thela BOXPARK
And she certainly did. Uzma works constantly for Thela. The girls in the kitchen will tell Uzma to go home but even then Uzma says, “My breaks are not breaks. I’m prepping for the next day or the next batch.”
At Thela Kitchen there are about 17 different spices that are all ground and roasted individually. “We cannot grind them together, because they all have a different texture. It’s all done separately.”
For Chef Uzma Zia however, working in the kitchen is not work. “Especially my staff have made it this way. I say this is my first home.” Uzma shared.
In regards to her consistent work at Thela, Uzma said, “Well, I don’t mind to be very honest. When I was training as a chef, I remember we would be the happiest when we were cooking for 200, 500…2000 people. That would be the highlight for us.”
On her few days off, Chef Uzma Zia said she is, “…basically running around to have good food. I really like to explore the market and see what is there.”
Behind the scenes in the bustling kitchen of Thela
Today, Thela Kitchen has regulars begging Chef Uzma Zia to bring Thela’s authentic Karachi cuisine to other corners of London. When you stop by Thela Kitchen to discover the incredible cuisine perfected by Chef Uzma Zia and her team, expect to be greeted by a warm kitchen family that will be more than happy to guide you towards a delicious, one-of-a-kind yet iconic meal. Maybe the Butter Chicken, a Paratha Roll, or the striking Falooda dessert?
Check out Chef Uzma Zia’s website here and find out more about her delicious food.
Thela
Unit 8
BOXPARK
99 George St
In BOXPARK Croydon
07701 316636
