I grew up hearing about the luxury and glamour of the Hamptons, largely thanks to shows such as Gossip Girl and SATC, where the elite flocked in their troves for the summer months. The white-washed, shingle-clad houses, pristine beaches, and exclusive parties painted a picture of effortless sophistication and indulgence. While I’m yet to venture to the Hamptons, I recently visited Hilton Head Island and discovered what a veritable alternative it is. Nestled in South Carolina, it’s a destination that exudes a raw, natural beauty that it’s hard not to be captivated by. Some destinations you visit are superficial, where what you see is what you get, and there’s no real soul. Hilton Head Island is the opposite of this. It’s breathtakingly beautiful, where you don’t need to add a filter to your photos, the sugar-white sand is feather-soft beneath your feet and the colors of the sky feel deliberately washed over with baby-blue pastels.
Everything feels gentler here somehow, slower. Although it’s an entirely new destination for me, I felt a sense of coming home, the same ease you get from visiting a favourite relative, or when curling up with a blanket and cup of tea at the end of a long day.
I’m exploring the island for five days from the UK, and it doesn’t take long to settle in and picture myself living here. In fact, as soon as I arrived it was easy to forget the hustle and bustle of everyday life back home and slip into a persona of early morning jogs on the beach, yoga to the sunrise, and cycling through canopies of Spanish moss, sunlight teasing my hair though chinks of light, the air fragrant with the smell of fauna and tinged with sea salt.
The picturesque beaches here are something else; the sand is perfectly white and the powder-blue waters so smooth they look like they’ve been spread with a butter knife. Yet there is so much more to do than feel the sand between your toes. You can taste fresh, boat-to-table cuisine, kayak through coastal waters and horse ride through nature in The Sea Pines Nature Reserve. You can play golf, shop until you drop at Harbour Town and immerse yourself in its rich history and Gullah culture. It’s a destination where you can do as much or as little as you please, taking it at your own pace.
I pull up to The Sea Pines resort on a Wednesday afternoon, and it’s been a long day of flying, having gone from London to Newark, then a connecting flight over to Savannah. United Airlines was comfortable, but a 3am start was beginning to take its toll. As the car turned into the long streets complete with luscious waterways, trees hanging with Spanish moss and sprawling homes like something from a film however, I sat up that little bit straighter. Sunlight dappled the pavements, families made their way past in single file on bicycles, herons flew majestically overhead before sitting to rest on the edge of the water.
A stay to remember in Hilton Head Island
As I pulled into the driveway of the house for the next few days, the real world was firmly left behind, for 23 South Beach Lagoon was easily the most stunning place I had ever stayed in. Easy to forget it’s a new(ish) build, it hearkens back to various Southern architecture tropes, with a light-painted exterior, high ceilings, a grand staircase and intricate detailing.
The house is the epitome of coastal-chic – it’s light, airy and effortlessly elegant, exuding luxury in an understated way. Open-plan design connects the kitchen, dining and lounge area seamlessly, with window seats that beg for afternoons spent with a glass of fizz and a good book just listening to the waves crawl up the shore. Soft blue hues and rattan accents bring the outdoors in, and it’s a space that perfectly balances relaxation and sophistication – ideal for padding around barefoot with a coffee, or spending an evening getting dressed up and dining with friends. There are seven bedrooms, more bathrooms than my group could get through in the few days we were there, two kitchens, two lounges and a study. There is enough here to not leave for the duration of your stay, but with so many things to see and do, you’d be silly to not venture out at least a few times!
From the beach just beyond, you can spot deer on the sandbanks and even dolphins close enough to the shore to hear as they frolic in the waves. Keep an eye out for turtle nests during high season and don’t forget to just stop and breathe in the ocean air.
You can then head back to the house for a dip in the hot tub where you can watch the palms sway and relish in the lack of man-made noise. There are no car horns, no thrum of footsteps jostling down busy streets and allowing yourself to just succumb to the quiet is an easy luxury.
A Holiday Spot With a Past to Explore
Hilton Head Island however, hasn’t always just been an enviable vacation spot; it has a deep history that’s important it isn’t forgotten. During my trip I headed to Historic Mitchellville Freedom Park which is known as the “place where freedom began.” What was once a plantation, it was the first place designated to helping formerly enslaved people live on their own. We have a tour from Ms. Lola Campbell, owner and founder of Binya Cultural Impact Consulting who explains more about the history of the park, which is beautifully peaceful considering its chequered past. “The history of Hilton Head Island and Mitchelville is integral to the freedom and heritage of the USA” she tells us, “We need to remember it isn’t just black history, it’s American history. And it’s more important now than ever to remember that.”
During your visit, you can see where the freed slaves lived, learn more about their lifestyle and spend as long or as little time here as you want. Make sure you check out the “Bench by the Road” project to commemorate the history of the millions of Africans enslaved and brought to the Americas. The project places benches at sites of historical significance for African Americans to serve as places of memory, reflection, and community and is a beautiful testament to the abolition of slavery.
It’s the people that make a place and the characters I come across in Hilton Head Island are testament to that. A tour of the neighborhood with Purpose Prize winner, author, and native born Hilton Head Islander, Dr. Emory Shaw Campbell is equally as enlightening. His work to preserve the Gullah culture has led him to write several publications one of which is “Gullah Cultural Legacies.” In 2005, he received the Carter G. Woodson Memorial for outstanding work and is the current President of Gullah Heritage Consulting Services.
The tour with Dr. Emory Shaw Campbell and Lola Campbell is incredibly interesting and we’re taught about the heritage of the island, as well as shown a more personal insight into life today. Lola takes us to her Mother’s stall where she sells fruit, vegetables and fish and is known in the area for her incredible devilled crab. Made inside the shell of a crab, it’s beautifully flavoured and proof that simplicity is best. I wander around her shop selling wares from those in the Gullah community and women. All of the products in the store mean something, from bracelets she hand-makes herself using a method she learned in Ghana, to books and woven baskets, all with a story to tell.
Hilton Head has done a great job of keeping natural beauty and visitors can take that to any degree they want to. They designate unused land to green space and have a very open-door community.
The Foodie Scene in Hilton Head Island Is Not To Be Underestimated
Nestled in Southern USA, you’d be forgiven for leaning into the stereotypes the region often gets painted with for food. People hear Southern USA and think of chicken, deeply fried and portions that are sickeningly large. While I can’t deny having some heinously large portion sizes (though I was not mad about this), the quality and diversity of the food here goes above and beyond. Take breakfast at Nectar Farm Kitchen for example. A local eatery, it works with farmers and distinguished chefs to create a menu with ingredients made and grown throughout the Lowcountry and the South.
Visit Harbour Town Bakery and Cafe for a quintessential Hilton Head Island experience; tucked beneath the moss-draped oaks of the area, it exudes old-town charm and the tantalising scent of baking hits you as soon as you approach the steps to the front door. If you’ve a sweet tooth, Sweet Al’s HH Donut Delivery is an effortless choice – you can either order them to be delivered to your house, or pop in. Be prepared to queue as their popularity speaks for itself!
Hilton Head Social Bakery is another fantastic option, offering an authentic taste of France through the artistry of award-winning Chef Philippe Feret and his wife Marissa. Feret believes in keeping ‘the art of baking alive from heart to whisk’ and as soon as you step foot inside and see the range of freshly baked pastries on offer, it’s easy to believe. Fat croissants stuffed with everything from chocolate to raspberry sit piled high, pastry perfectly crisp, flaky, and buttery on the outside with soft layers inside. There is also a range of fresh cakes, sandwiches, hot drinks, and juices. It’s cozy, quaint, and perfect any time of day for a sweet treat or a pick-me-up.
For lunch, be sure to check out Hudson’s Seafood on the Docks, offering a celebration of Hilton Head Island’s rich maritime heritage. Overlooking Port Royal Sound, Hudson’s serves seafood almost entirely from its own local fishing fleet, one of only two remaining on the island. Guests often witness the day’s catch being unloaded right onto the docks, a rare and authentic connection between sea and table. There’s a real focus on sustainability and ethical practice here and this can not only be seen, but felt in the end result. The food is all beautifully flavoured and presented, and the fish was the best I’ve ever eaten in my life. The portions are large, and I recommend sharing a few between your party to sample a little of everything.
Head to Quarterdeck for dinner, a beautiful waterfront restaurant with sweeping views of the marina and a stunningly curated seafood menu. Sip cocktails while you try local oysters before feasting on a range of classic dishes to the sound of live music in the background. For something a little more casual, Fishcamp on Broad Creek is a restaurant that was imagined by the Reilley and Simmons’ families as a place where neighbours could “gather together over great meals and share laughter, stories, and life.” It feels exactly like you’re at a family gathering, with crackling patio lamps, games on the sand for children and adults alike, and a VIP view of the sun setting over the lake.
For a truly special dining experience, you can have a meal cooked by lowcountry cultural icon and chef Ms. Sallie Ann Robinson – a sixth-generation native of Daufuskie Island and a passionate steward of Gullah culture. A vibrant character with a personality as big as the flavours in her food, Sallie Ann settled right in to cooking in front of us, teaching us the best way to shell a prawn (slice lengthways with the knife facing away from you), how celery is perfect for tenderising meat, and telling us stories of her childhood while we splashed wine into glasses and tucked into some delicious crab cakes she’d made earlier. The evening was rounded off with an incredible dinner, family-style, sharing stories, making connections and revelling in some of the most fantastic food.
A Place Where Wellness Comes Easily
Of course, with so many culinary options on offer, you’ll want to balance your trip with some wellbeing. Thankfully, this comes naturally when you’re somewhere as beautiful as Hilton Head Island, where the sun shines and the air feels fresh. You can start your day with a yoga session on a boat, where you can do your ‘warrior 2’ pose to the sounds of the water, (keeping half an eye out for dolphins!), rounding off with a green juice and gentle sail back to shore.
Take time to head out on a bike, particularly when staying at The Sea Pines resort, where you can pedal your way along more than 15 miles of picturesque trails that weave beneath the trees and past sparkling lagoons, marshlands, and historic treasures such as the Stoney-Baynard Ruins. Cycling offers the perfect pace to fully absorb the relaxed beauty of the Lowcountry too – whether starting near the Harbour Town Lighthouse or heading toward South Beach, you can easily travel to the shore, boutique shops, and restaurants. Or why not go horse riding through the preserves where you can take a gentle trot through nature, taking in the sights?
Unspoiled Charm That Feels Like Home
As someone who likes my sleep, I was pleasantly surprised to find myself coaxed out of bed at dawn, simply to watch the sun rise. Others in my group who self-proclaimed they wouldn’t be seen dead in a pair of trainers back in London fully embraced the lifestyle with early morning jogs along the sand. There’s something about the lull of the waves, the fresh air and the feeling of calm and safety here that encourages you to step out of your daily routine and want to be the best version of yourself.
Instead of swigging a black coffee as you race out the door to work, it’s about slow mornings, conscious movements and letting yourself just be. There are plenty of hidden nooks here to just read a book and sip a tea, there are walks to be had and people to meet. Hilton Head Island is a melting pot of everything you could want from a break away, and the bits in between you didn’t even know you needed. It offers rest and relaxation, nature and beauty, culture and creativity. You can eat to your heart’s content, from fine-dining with classic music, to sipping local wine under the stars and sharing dishes family style on the waters-edge.
It’s a place that scratches an itch you’ve been unable to reach, showing the beauty of travel and discovery. It teaches the art of slowing down, by throwing yourself into something new and provides a spot where you’ll feel just at home on a romantic getaway with your other half, as you would racing around the sand with friends, making memories with family, or visiting solo. It’s somewhere that’s safe and where strangers become friends. It’s somewhere you can’t visit just once. Believe me.
For a destination that offers so much more beneath the surface than you can even realise yourself, look no further than Hilton Head Island.
https://www.hiltonheadisland.org
