I peer around me and feel as though I’ve stumbled upon the town of beauty and the beast. Crooked houses in pastel shades stand shoulder to shoulder, fresh blooms burst from window boxes and timber slats adorn the facades. My feet sweep over cobblestone floors and each corner leads to a new boutique shop or cafe, where people spill out onto the streets, basking in the sunshine or enjoying a cafe au lait and a croissant. The silhouette of a chateau stands atop of the hill and the air is peaceful. I’m not in the town of Beauty and the Beast. I’m not even in France – in fact I’m over three and a half thousand miles away in the Old Quebec city. The only fortified city north of Mexico and Canada’s mostly French-speaking Québec province, it’s a beautiful city with a vivid past just begging to be explored. I’m here to discover more about this quintessential destination and the locations around it, ideal for any sort of traveller.
Normally before I go away I have an idea of the destination I’m visiting, but with Quebec I wasn’t sure what to expect. I’d heard of places in the region such as Montreal and Ontario but the areas on my itinerary were completely new to me. I packed my walking boots, some shorts and T-shirts as the forecast was warm, a raincoat and a few dresses and was on my way. With a flight time of around 6 hours 25 from the UK straight to Quebec from Gatwick it’s easier than ever to get there. Flights run once a week on a Sunday with AirTransat, a Canadian airline with a fantastic safety record. Flights are comfortable and it feels like almost no time at all when I’m touching down.
Quebec City is inexplicably beautiful, with a quintessential old-town charm. The St. Lawrence River runs right through the heart of the city, meaning you don’t get the same feeling of claustrophobia that many cities bring. For my time in the Old Quebec City I stayed in the Fairmont Château Frontenac, a luxurious hotel that also stands as Québec City’s most famous landmark. The luxurious hotel is perched atop Cape Diamond and since it was built in the 19th century has seen a plethora of celebrities walk through the doors, as well as host many iconic events. In 1943 and 1944 it was the center of the Quebec conferences of WW2, involving U.S. President Franklin D. Roosevelt, British Prime Minister Winston Churchill and Canadian Prime Minister William Lyon Mackenzie King.
The Fairmont Chateau Frontenac is one of the most stunning places I’ve ever stayed, marrying traditional charm with all the modern features you’d expect in a luxury hotel. My bags are delivered to my room, a stunning space drenched in natural light with a huge king-sized bed and rolling views of the river below. There’s a gym and swimming pool, (I certainly made the most of my jet lag and headed for a couple of early morning swims!) as well as a rooftop bar ideal for soaking up the city views. It’s summer when I visit and the sun is strong – it’s hard to imagine when winter hits the city is covered in a thick blanket of snow!
When heading to Quebec I recommend timing your visit with the Festival d’été de Québec, Canada’s most iconic outdoor music festival. Set against the historic backdrop of Old Québec, it features a host of fantastic artists and a multitude of stages across the city. Not one to waste a day, I spent the first night indulging in a delicious dinner at Maurice Restaurant Lounge. Tired from my flight but not wanting to miss a thing, this restaurant was just what I needed. What felt like discovering Québec’s best-kept secret, I sipped a cold glass of wine while tucking into the most delicious meal in a setting that felt both intimate yet buzzing. It’s also the ideal position to head to the Festival d’ete after! As the sun slides behind the buildings and day turns to night, I find myself in the midst of the festival, where music throbs, lights flash and the atmosphere is electric. It’s one of the best festivals I’ve been to, a sentiment shared by the almost 1.5million people that attend. Thanks to it being affordable and suitable for all ages, it’s popular with those all around the globe.
The next morning I indulged in a relaxed hotel breakfast before setting off for a walking tour of Old Québec with the wonderfully knowledgeable Frantz Noël from Conciergerie du Terroir. Wandering through the cobbled streets and 17th-century architecture, I felt like I was stepping into a living postcard, offering a peek to the past. A stunning city it’s easy to spend many hours just meandering the streets and taking it all in. A walking tour is one of the best ways to get your bearings and find out more about the history of the city so I definitely recommend you do this!
After returning to the hotel for a freshen up, (as mentioned above, the weather was beautifully hot!) it was time to set off to Île d’Orléans. A lush countryside escape just minutes from the city, the island is a feast for all senses and a really majestic spot to spend an afternoon. I try local strawberries at Ferme Francois Gosselin, cool down with artisan ice cream at Sainte Pétronille and sip wine al fresco at Saint-Pierre Le Vignoble… before heading to Montmorency Falls for an adrenaline spike and change of pace! Famous for being taller than Niagara falls, you can spend a day hiking around here, or take the most memorable route of a zipline all the way from one side to the other! Equal parts thrilling, unforgettable and a little bit terrifying, it was one of the best things I’ve ever done and a real must-do experience when in Quebec.
After a full day of adventure, I had some free time to explore Québec City’s shops and galleries before winding down with dinner at Le Sam, inside the iconic Château Frontenac. The cocktails were as much art as science, with everything from the classics to the hotel’s own iterations. Food wise, the local ingredients shone through each and every dish, and the view over the St. Lawrence River is the perfect setting. It was with a heavy heart (and full stomach) I dragged myself up to bed, knowing it was my last night here. Yet one of the best parts about starting your trip in Old Quebec City is its proximity to the many other fantastic places in Quebec just waiting to be explored. While you could stay in the area for the duration of your trip to the region, I recommend continuing your trip to Le Québec maritime and Charlevoix.
Québec Maritime offers a breathtaking escape into nature with rugged cliffs, whale watching on the St. Lawrence, and charming coastal villages. Charlevoix, on the other hand, is a feast for the senses with rolling hills, art-filled towns, and a focus on farm-to-table cuisine. It’s also home to Le Festif! an amazing intimate festival that takes place throughout the city, blending cutting-edge performances with authentic local culture. Performances happen in people’s back gardens, in cafe car parks and so much more, providing you with an endless program of surprises from start to finish. When paired with Old Quebec City, the three regions offer the perfect balance of outdoor adventure and cultural indulgence, ideal for travellers who want a bit of everything.
Quebec is a city that defies expectation, where you can satisfy any craving you might have. Whether you’re looking for the best farm-to-table dishes, a rush of adrenaline, culture, art or music, there is something for you here. It’s a place with endless stories to tell and where you’re guaranteed adventure and unforgettable moments from start to finish. It’s somewhere that when you’ve been once, you just can’t keep away.
Update for 2025:
Le Festif! 2025 will be taking place from the 17-20th July.
Le Festival d’été de Québec 2025 will be taking place from the 3rd to the 13th of July.
