I’ve always been more of a hot-weather sort of person. If I’m going away, I want to know there will be white sand, clear blue skies and a tan at the end of it. If I was going to do something different, it had to be something special to change my mind – and Haute-Savoie Mont-Blanc was just that.
A region in Eastern France, I headed for a ski trip earlier this year and was blown away by just how much I loved it. Cosy rooms where I could throw open the windows and be greeted with a complete and utter stillness outside. Where the world is blanketed in a perfectly white canopy of snow, icicles glistening off the edges of roofs and the sky is crystal clear. Days spent sliding (not so gracefully in my case) down mountains before busting into the warmth of Apres Ski, cheeks flushed, music booming, Aperol in hand. Where long days lent way to languid evenings spent relaxing in an alpine-style lodge, sheepskin throws slung over benches and the air thick with the smells of bubbling fondue.
There’s something cosy and inherently comforting about a break like this, where you’re not worried about a bikini body or forcing yourself to relax, but where wellness comes naturally. You can take it as fast paced or as slow as you like, doing as much or as little as you fancy.
Stop 1 – Plateau de Solaison
My trip starts at Plateau de Solaison, a couples of hours drive away from Geneva airport where I fly from the UK. The roads are winding and beautiful, canopies of trees slicing up the weak sunlight and making the snow glisten. We’re perched atop a mountain with the most breathtaking views of Mont Blanc standing proud on the skyline. The first stop is lunch at “Chez Gigi” a traditional French restaurant that comes from a line of avid chefs and bakers. It’s quaint, beautiful and rustic, with net curtains, wooden floorboards and tablecloths. We feast on local cheese and meats with a small glass of local crisp, white wine.
In the afternoon, I’m told, we’re going to try a traditional snowshoe hike or cross-country ski. I’ve never so much as set foot on a slope before, but opt for a cross-country ski, figuring it’s fun to just get straight in there. It’s incredibly fun and I even get to try rifle shooting as they do in the Biathlon in the Winter Olympics (I hit all of the targets for the first time!) It’s a shame this precision doesn’t translate to the slopes as while I enjoy it, I seem to spend a lot of time trying to get up again after toppling into a pile of snow – but it’s good fun and all worth it!
The night is spent at Le Taconet, a boutique-style accommodation which is clean, beautifully presented and has the most incredible views out the windows. After dinner at La Grande Ours, where I try Tartiflette – a classic Savoyard gratin from the French Alps. A combination of sliced potatoes, reblochon cheese, bacon lardons and onions it’s by no means a light dish, but it warms you right from inside, packs a punch with flavour and is the perfect antidote to the heavy snow and chilling winds outside.
Stop 2 – Praz-de-Lys-Sommand
The next day begins with breakfast at Jeunesse Ardent, where I fill myself up on flaky croissants, warm bread from the oven, local cheese and meats. We spend the day exploring the beautiful area of Praz-de-Lys-Sommand, a popular ski resort particularly with families. My group and I try snowshoeing, which is harder than I thought it would be! But a great way to take in the sights and get around some of the trickier snowy terrains.
We stop for lunch at a prime spot with views overlooking the slopes, ordering a classic fondue and an Aperol Spritz. The sun is shining, ice cubes clink in the glass and although I haven’t officially ‘skied’ yet, I’m fast falling in love with the whole concept. Everyone seems completely relaxed, the air is filled with the sounds of chatter and laughing and those of all ages are really enjoying themselves.
Stop 3 – Les Carroz
After a wander around the resort, we depart from Praz de Lys Sommand to Les Carroz, where we’re dropped off at Milkhotel. A chic, contemporary chalet in the heart of a vast ski area, it’s a perfect spot if you want to be right on the slopes. In fact, the hotel is located at the bottom of one of the main slopes, meaning you couldn’t get closer to the action if you tried! I enjoy a delicious dinner here before heading to bed for my first day of skiing the next morning.
It’s an early departure for the slopes on the Wednesday of my trip, but I’m super excited. As we collect our skis, strap on our boots and I watch toddlers whizzing past me with skills I could only hope to possess, I hope it’s not going to be too difficult! As a first-timer, I’ve booked onto a lesson to teach me the ropes. I’m surprised (particularly with my clumsy demeanour) just how quickly I take to it and we’re considered good enough to head up on a ski lift to try some different runs. I’ve never felt exhilaration like it – gliding down the slopes with what looks like a majestic toy town blanketed in snow beneath me. It’s like a fairytale, completely peaceful with a hint of adrenaline thrown in for good measure! We stop for lunch at the K, an incredible spot where music plays and there’s something for everyone on the menu.
If you’re looking for an Apres Ski spot that’s not too crazy, this is a great one for a taste of fun on the slopes. A morning of skiing is enough for my first time (and my poor feet) so I spend the afternoon at the Aquacîme, a gorgeous nautical center with two outdoor pools, steam rooms, a sauna and heated relaxation beds. This center feels very focused on wellbeing with floor to ceiling glass windows where you can watch the skiers up the mountains and the rolling hills.
Stop 4 – Praz-Sur-Arly
Feeling very relaxed yet exhilarated from my first day skiing, I head to the coach for a transfer to Praz-Sur-Arly where I check into the Griyotire Hotel. Praz-Sur-Arly is nestled in the heart of Haute-Savoie and is an achingly beautiful commune with plenty of boutique shops, restaurants and things to do. The Griyotire Hotel is the perfect place to stay, right in the thick of the action and it really encapsulates the alpine vibe. Rooms are detailed with wood and feature thick blankets and large windows. I open my balcony to let the fresh mountain air in and just soak up the view as I sip a cup of tea. I feel relaxed, really relaxed.
Too often, life is spent rushing around, having to be somewhere at all times. The pace is intentionally slower here and I feel all the better for it. Wellbeing isn’t something you have to search out like in the city, but something that just happens naturally, from the very simple act of breathing in non-polluted air, to eating fresh ingredients and walking from place to place.
Dinner takes place at the Ronins Restaurant, a short amble from the hotel. More of a fine-dining destination (but not somewhere pretentious or that you need to feel like you have to dress up for if you don’t want to) the food here is incredible and it’s almost impossible to choose between the dishes. I tuck into a steak pie with truffle and fresh mixed vegetables. It’s fragrant, flavoursome and decadent, washed down by a glass of local red. Night falls on my last full day in the Haute-Savoie region and I’m already planning to come back.
The final day on my skiing adventure is focused on the local Hot Air Balloon festival that takes place in Praz-Sur-Arly every year. While hot air balloon flights are available all year round, this festival sees dozens of air balloons with pilots from all over taking part. We head up in our balloon and there is nothing like the feeling of calm and peace as you float over the rooftops, covered in a fat layer of untouched, pristine-white snow. Trees break through the canopy of white, peppering the landscape in shades of green and cars whiz around the landscape like ants.
We end up landing in a field a fair way from where we started and when we hop out we’re knee-deep in snow! I help the hot air balloon team to roll up the equipment before we’re taken to the airport and it’s with a heavy heart the beautiful white landscape slowly turns greener and then more grey as we approach the airport.
Time in Haute-Savoie Mont-Blanc is like something out of a fairy tale, with something for everyone. Whether you’re a first-time skier or a seasoned pro, whether you are sporty or just want to come for the food, drink and the good vibes. It’s one of the most breathtaking and captivating regions I have ever travelled to and I can safely say I’ve caught the skiing bug. I return feeling rested, healthy and happy. The trip has been a whirlwind but I’ve loved every second. Haute-Savoie Mont-Blanc is a region you can’t just visit once. I arrived convinced I was a beach-holiday person. I left already planning my next ski trip.
FAQs About Visiting Haute-Savoie
When is the best time to visit Haute-Savoie?
Haute-Savoie is beautiful year-round, but the best time to visit depends on the type of trip you want. Winter (December to March) is ideal for skiing, snowshoeing and cosy alpine escapes, while summer offers incredible hiking, cycling and lake activities with warmer temperatures and lush mountain scenery. January and February are particularly magical if you want guaranteed snow and a classic alpine atmosphere.
How long should you spend in Haute-Savoie?
A long weekend of three to four days is perfect for a first visit, especially if you’re planning a ski break. However, a week allows you to properly explore multiple resorts, enjoy wellness experiences, try different winter sports and soak up the slower pace of alpine life without rushing.
Is Haute-Savoie good for beginner skiers?
Yes, Haute-Savoie is an excellent destination for beginners. Many resorts in the region, including Praz-de-Lys-Sommand and Les Carroz, have beginner-friendly slopes, highly regarded ski schools and a relaxed atmosphere that feels far less intimidating than some larger ski destinations. It’s a great place to learn while still enjoying incredible scenery and authentic alpine charm.
How far is Haute-Savoie from Geneva Airport?
One of the biggest advantages of Haute-Savoie is how accessible it is. Many resorts can be reached from Geneva Airport in around one to two hours by car or transfer, making it an ideal option for shorter ski breaks or long weekends from the UK and elsewhere in Europe.
Is skiing in Haute-Savoie expensive?
Haute-Savoie can cater to a range of budgets. While luxury chalets and fine dining are available, the region also offers affordable accommodation, family-run hotels and reasonably priced restaurants compared to some of the more exclusive Alpine resorts. Ski pass prices vary depending on the resort and season, but many visitors find the area offers good value for money considering the quality of the skiing and scenery.
Who is Haute-Savoie best suited for?
Haute-Savoie suits a wide range of travellers. It’s ideal for first-time skiers, couples looking for a romantic winter escape, families wanting a relaxed ski holiday and wellness-focused travellers seeking fresh mountain air and slower living. It’s also perfect for food lovers thanks to the region’s rich Savoyard cuisine and cosy alpine dining scene.
